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INFO PACK

YAY!!! The big day has finally arrived, and you get to bring your new family memberhome. To help you hit the ground running and get the puppy settled in as quickly aspossible we have put together a list of really important information.

If you would like to enquire about future litters please use the contact form on the website.

PUPPY INFORMATION

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• Puppy feeding guide


Here @ Pup Life London we believe feeding raw meat is best for your puppy. Raw food
diet removes a lot of unnecessary carbohydrates so it can be a great way of helping a
dogs lose weight and maintain a healthy weight.
A raw food diet also allows puppies to absorb majority of the ingredients, therefore
waste less compared to a kibble diet. Consequently, poop less. Yay!!
Here are some more benefits from feeding raw food.
*Supports your puppy’s health
*Improves energy levels
*Gives a glossier coat
*Decreases intolerances and sensitivities
*Smaller, firmer poop
*Less wind which means less smell.
We order from DAF, which has been designed by nutritionist and can be personalised
for you pup. It has also been reported by www.dashingdawgs.com that not only will a
raw food diet increases your dog’s lifespan by up to 3 years, but your dog will also enjoy
increase healthfulness and energy level during their longer life. At the time of weaning
our pups are fed small amounts often 4-6 times a day. By the time they are complete
weaned from mum between 7-8 weeks they will be on 2-3 feeds a day depending on weight.
We ideally like them to be leaving us on 2 meals a day 7am and 7pm to help them settle into
their new routine with their new family. They will also be completely off milk and drinking
water only.
The link to the suppliers is below.
www.Durhamfeeds.com
It’s best to maintain a consistent diet in the first week or so to avoid tummy upsets –
moving to a new home and then being fed different food all adds to the stress for the
pup. They can have major digestive issues if you switch up their food source too
quickly. If you did want to change their diet ease them on to it gradually by mixing small
amounts into their meals and build it up slowly.
Keep the amount of food they get each day to the appropriate amount. It’s hard to resist
those puppy-dog eyes but keep extra food and treats out of reach and away from prying
teeth!
Your favourite food may be hamburgers and fries or steak and Brussel sprouts but your
puppy and his tummy can’t quite tolerate this human food. Refrain from treating your
puppy with people’s food. If you need a reward, rely on puppy appropriate treats in the
right size.
Lastly, feed your puppy on a set schedule. This will help you control the amount of food

they take in as well as when and where they’ll go potty.

 

• Microchip

 

Your puppy has been microchipped in the back of the neck. As the pup grows these chips
can move around slightly but will still be picked up by a scanner. You can find the ID number
will be on his/her puppy vet record. They will automatically be registered to my name and
address.
You will have to call Petlog and change this over as soon as possible.

 

• First Vaccinations

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There are four core vaccines all puppies should get: rabies virus, canine distemper virus,
canine adenovirus-2 and canine parvovirus. Optional vaccines such as kennel cough are
highly recommended. Your puppy has had his/her first vaccinations and will be due the
second one at 12 weeks of age.
I will inform you of the brand my vet has used as they will need to have the same brand for
the second vaccination. Not all vets stock the same brands so it’s a good idea to register
with a vet asap and book them in for their jab. Also, there is a huge back log of vaccinations
at the moment so maybe a waiting list.

 

• Wormer

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Your puppy has been wormed at 2, 4, 6 and 8 weeks using the Drontal puppy wormer.
Once registered with a vet, pass this information over to them and they will advise you
on a wormer course moving forward.

 

• What to do when you first get your puppy home?

 

* Firstly it’s important to remember that your puppy has just left his mother and
littermates and now has to come to terms with being placed in new surroundings with
new people and smells – this may make him scared or fearful. Obviously, everyone
within the family will be excited to welcome him – especially younger children – but try
not to overly fuss, pass him around too much or be too loud. The more sedate the
introduction to your home the less stressful for him.
* When you get home and BEFORE you bring your new pup into the house, take him to
his ‘potty spot’ outdoors to let him relieve himself. This helps to get toilet training started
straight away and your life together doesn’t begin with cleaning up a puddle!
* Once you’ve taken him indoors – let him explore his new surroundings at his own pace
and restrict him to 1 or 2 rooms within the house. Giving him access to the house
straight-away may be confusing and scary for him. Supervise him at all times – even if
you have puppy-proofed your house!
* Dogs require routines – so get your puppy into theirs as quickly as possible.  Keep
food bowls and water bowls in the same place all the time and, when taking him to the
toilet, escort him to a designated spot outside and stick to that area. He should quickly
become more comfortable and confident because of the familiar location and smells.

 

• How to deal with your puppy’s first night in your home

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The first night can often be difficult – both for you and for your new addition. Your puppy

may find it hard to settle at first, but there are steps you can take to make things more
comfortable:
* Firstly, it’s important to understand that puppies don’t have designated ‘bedtimes’.
They know when they need to rest so, if they sleep during the day, don’t wake them up
in anticipation of a good night’s sleep. Make sure any young children are aware of this
and that they know not to disturb them.
* Do not let them sleep in your bed. If you let them do this ‘just this once’ then they will
expect it going forward and will make subsequent attempts to make them sleep in their
crate or basket that much harder.
* Your puppy should initially be sleeping in a crate/safe space, so they don’t have access
to the whole house where they can get into trouble. Dogs naturally don’t soil their
sleeping area, so it has the added benefit of making them more likely to wait until they
are outside before going to the toilet.
* Using a hot water bottle will mimic the effect of sleeping beside their mother/sibling’s
warm body and helps to reassure your puppy. If using a crate, you want to put a blanket
over the top to make it feel even more secure for them.
*Once you have prepared the safe space and your puppy is inside, you need to close it
and leave them on their own. It may be hard to ignore them if they whimper but that is
exactly what you should do. Only enter the room to check on them when they have stopped
whimpering – giving them attention when they are making noise will only encourage them
to do it even more.
*Your puppy will probably need to go to the toilet in the night. Be prepared to set your
alarm every two to three hours so that you can get up and take them outside to their
designated spot to relieve themselves.
*Puppies tend to sleep 15-20 hours a day so you should have no trouble getting them to
sleep through the night by the time they’re 10-12 weeks old. Once they’ve settled into
the routine and gotten used to their new environment, they’ll be able to easily sleep
through the night.
There will be many demanding times beyond the initial few days. However, getting the
first 24 hours right is vital for setting the tone and making sure you have a solid
foundation build upon.

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• Toilet training

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Your puppy has started litter training with us from the age of 4 weeks old and are all
getting the hang of where to do their business. We use an extra-large cat tray and
natural wood pellets. However, he/she won’t be fully potty trained overnight. It takes
time and patience, and every puppy learns at his own pace. As a general rule of thumb,
your pup can hold it only for as many hours as his age (in months). For instance, if he’s
2 months old, he should go out every two hours to prevent an accident. If your dog does
have an accident, don’t punish him/her or stick his nose in it. Interrupt him with an
“oops” and take him outside to go to the bathroom. 

 

• Toys

 

Puppies learn by playing and having stimulation, safe toys for him/her to use and play is

a great way to keep their minds sharp and help them bod with you. Choose a few toys
that you think will work with your puppy early on and purchase them before s/he arrives
home. He will have a choice of fun things to interact with.

 

• Socializing
 

It’s really important in the first three months of life your puppy is introduced to as many
people, places, and experiences as possible, but with one major caveat: If he hasn’t had
the proper vaccines yet, it’s not a good idea to take him to public places i.e. the park,
where he could contract a deadly disease like parvo. The dogs at the dog park could be
ill or unvaccinated. It’s not worth the risk; wait until your vet gives the all-clear.

 

*Introducing an older dog to your new puppy
Let them interact in a more neutral location. Let them sniff and smell each other as this
is the best way for them to get an idea of the other one and their intention. Keep your
big dog on a lead so you can easily move him away if he starts to pick a fight or get
aggressive toward your new puppy.
Let your dog’s become more familiar with each other through the safety of the puppy-
proof area or over a dog gate. Your puppy will stay safe within his gated area but can
sniff and “talk” to his new older sibling while they get used to each other.
Any interaction between your older dog and your new puppy should be monitored by
you or another trustworthy person in your family. Once older dogs understand that the
puppy isn’t a threat; they usually settle into the role of an older sibling and play and
enjoy the puppy but if they’re annoyed, they can lash out. Refrain from letting young
children watch your dogs as they interact in case this happens!

 

• Puppy supplies checklist

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✓ Appropriate sized crate/playpen- if using
✓ Toys- must be puppy safe
✓ Age-appropriate food
✓ Collar- adjustable, your puppy will grow FAST!!
✓ Leash
✓ Information Tags
✓ Food and Water bowl
✓ Puppy pads- for those inevitable accidents
✓ Spot cleaner spray- spot begone for odour eliminating
✓ Age-appropriate treats
✓ Baby or dog gate

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